In 1953, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf introduced a watch that was
specifically designed for the unique needs of professionals who work
beneath the water’s surface — the famous Rolex Submariner. The watch
combined sev-eral of Rolex’s most significant design innovations, such
as the “Oyster” waterproof watch case (1926), and the perpetual
automatic winding mechanism (1931), and was an immediate success. Over
time, the Submariner has changed remarkably very little and the Rolex
Sub-mariner is to this day one of the most popular, and high-ly sought
after wristwatches in the world. In 2004, to celebrate the 50th
anniversary of the famous Submariner, Rolex released a special model
Submariner at the Basel Watch Fair — reference number 16610LV.
The 16610LV differs from the standard 16610 Sub-mariner only in a few
key areas to be found on the watch dial and bezel. The most apparent
change is the color of the unidirectional rotating bezel — a Rolex green
bezel insert is used on the 16610LV instead of the standard-issue black
bezel insert. A closer examination of the dial will reveal a second
significant cosmetic change. Rolex has given the LV Submariner their
signature “Maxi Dial” white gold markers (such as can be found on the
Yacht?master) which are larger in diameter than the standard markers
that can be found on the 16610. While the dif-ferences are relatively
subtle, they are notably distinct. The Rolex green bezel is particularly
radical for the house of Wilsdorf that historically has had a very
conservative approach to style and change. Here’s a photo of my
Rolex Submariner 16610 LV next to my Submariner 16613 to illustrate the
differences in the markers and hands between the two:
The other key factor to understand about the LV Submariner is that it
is relatively scarce. Given that it was a brand new model in 2004,
clearly the existing supply of 16610LV models is a small fraction when
compared to the supply of the standard reference 16610 Submariners
(which incidentally is almost always in short supply with authorized
dealers due to its ongoing popularity). The 16610 LV also is no longer
in production, as it was replaced by the green ceramic bezel and green
dial version of the 116610 which Rolex debuted at Basel 2010:
The rest of the features and specifica-tions of the 16610LV are
virtually identi-cal to the 16610 Submariner — and this a good thing
given the standard set by the 16610. It has the same scratch-resistant
sapphire crystal, triplock crown, and flip-lock clasp (with dive suite
extension) as the 16610. The 40mm diameter case, as well as the 20mm
tapered bracelet, are constructed from the same ultra-high grade 904L
stainless steel (the only watch I’m aware of which uses such a high
grade of stainless steel) and has the same 300 meters/1000 feet of water
resistance. The 16610LV is also equipped with the same fabulous
self-winding movement as the 16610 Submariner — the Rolex Caliber 3135.
The 31 jewel Rolex 3135 (designed and manufac-tured entirely “in
house” by Rolex) in the Submariner has been in service since 1989. In
those 15 years of ser-vices, the 3135 has garnered a reputation as being
one of the most reliable and robust watch movements ever cre-ated. At
the same time, the movement has been criticized at times for lacking
refinement and technological sophistication. True, the 3135 won’t win
any beauty con-tests, but intentionally so. It was designed from the
be-ginning as a movement to be encased in a stainless steel Oyster case,
and to endure rigorous conditions and treacherous environments — it’s a
clear case of function over form. I would also argue that the 3135
isn’t lacking in technological sophistication — Rolex Research and
Development is second to none. Rolex has implemented several, truly
notable features into the 3135, such as a Breguet overcoil
balance-spring, Microstella adjustment screws, and Kif shock absorption.
The high-beat move-ment oscillates at 28,800 beats per hour (BPH). In
short, it’s hard to criticize Rolex for setting the benchmarkwhich other
manufactures strive to attain. Every Rolex caliber 3135 is COSC tested
and certified for the highest standards of accuracy.
The Rolex Submariner is not without fault, but it’s also the
archetype which has defined the modern day dive watch for 50 years. It
combines Rolex’s exacting manufacturing standards of excellence with
undeniable and enduring aesthetic appeal into a watch which re-mains one
of the best watches ever created. I personally owned a 16610 LV
Submariner when they first came out, and very much enjoyed the watch – I
didn’t get as much wear from the watch as I did with the more versatile
black bezel 16610 so I did end up selling it. But perhaps I’ll someday
re-acquire one for it’s collectible significance.
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